Until a few days ago, the furthest north I had ever been in the U.K. (and in the world, for that matter) was to Crewe in Chesire. This was superseded last Friday, when we travelled up to York for the weekend...
It was probably the worst time of the year ever to go to North Yorkshire. It was quasi freezing in London and did not expect the situation to be any more pleasant 300 km up. We took the 7.15pm (non stop) train and as soon as the train doors opened in York station, it was like stepping out in the Arctic; it was some -3 degrees and I thought my ears were about to fall off. Outside the station, all was a monochromatic scene of white: snow everywhere! We headed to our cosy hotel literally down the road, checked in and settled for a nice warming glass of Southern Comfort before retiring.
The next day, it was somewhat warmer, just above freezing point. Nice. The usual English breakfast awaited downstairs and then out into the cold with our first exploration of the medieval city. It was initially extremely confusing to see that the many city gates were actually called "Bars" and the streets in the older parts were called "Gates". Taking note of that, we made our way through the city walls (unfortunately closed off due to the snow) and across the Ouse, we headed to the well-known Shambles. And then the main star of York, the Minster.
Gothic architecture has always impressed me and the cathedral at York proved to be equally fascinating as other noteworthy examples here in U.K., say Westminster, Canterbury and Salisbury. It was terribly cold inside, probably more than outside, despite the continuous line of heaters along the building's perimeter, but then again I did not expect these to heat up such an immense volume. A British tour guide showed us around for a good 1.25 hours, explaining every little detail until it was time for lunch. A pub lunch, of course. Bangers and mash. And ginger beer. Bliss.
Next stop, visiting the main parts of the city walls and then the York Brewery. I always associated beer with summer, but if you happen to be around at this time of the year, then it would be a shame not to pay a visit to the tiny brewery at York. After sampling 2 of their brews, a very charismatic Brit showed us around (or explained to us the whole brewing process really), after which we sampled yet another 2 brews. Very tasty indeed. A quick trip to the hotel and then dinner, after which a couple of shots of the minster at night and off to bed.
Besides all the medieval and Gothic architecture, what really impressed me during the first day was the fact that, while we were wrapped up in 3 or 4 layers of clothing and still complaining at times, most of the youngsters walked around on the Saturday night wearing T shirts, short dresses with bare backs and other such summer clothes. Is this normal behaviour? Are they immune to the cold?
The Sunday started with breakfast and check out and then off to the gardens behind the minster, which, all laden with snow, really looked like anything but a garden. The ruins of the abbey there were almost as impressive as the minster. The final stop after a quick coffee was the Jorvik centre. I had previously never really seen anything related to the Vikings, but I suppose this was a very good start. It was very well presented, in typical English style, and enjoyed every minute of it. Except the bit when we "drove" past a Viking trying to take a dump...especially considering that it was a very interactive show, with smells and all...
Another pub lunch finished off the morning and then it was time to get the train back to London, with a lot of good memories of the north. Oh, I forgot to mention, also with a nice aching bruise on my bottom from my slip down a staircase, courtesy of the ice! And now that I have seen the old (original) York, I guess I should be thinking of visiting New York!
